Is it OK to have a light that can only be controlled via automation?
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
I am retrofitting the main light in a room to be controlled by a home automation system, in this case, I'm using z-wave, but for purposes of this question, it could be any digital protocol.
I would like to have all switches that control the light do so using z-wave, and the actual dimmer circuit won't have a physical switch (it will be buried in the light fixture).
In other words, I will have no switches in the wall that actually break the connection or dim the light.
Is this ok from a code perspective? Does NEC have some kind of rule that I must have a switch in the room that physically controls the light?
If it's not ok, I'm looking for the particular part of the NEC that says that.
lighting home-automation nec
New contributor
add a comment |
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
I am retrofitting the main light in a room to be controlled by a home automation system, in this case, I'm using z-wave, but for purposes of this question, it could be any digital protocol.
I would like to have all switches that control the light do so using z-wave, and the actual dimmer circuit won't have a physical switch (it will be buried in the light fixture).
In other words, I will have no switches in the wall that actually break the connection or dim the light.
Is this ok from a code perspective? Does NEC have some kind of rule that I must have a switch in the room that physically controls the light?
If it's not ok, I'm looking for the particular part of the NEC that says that.
lighting home-automation nec
New contributor
Can you fit wallbox remotes/control panels at the expected lighting control locations?
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 10 at 23:54
I'd worry more about common sense, intended use cases, and what users of the space would expect, including fail conditions. Electronics fail, DIY projects fail, and commercial automation systems fail, so what will happen when this sytem fails? How will your users use it? I would always have a manual switch somewhere, unless there were other ways to get light in that space.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 3:22
@YetAnotherRandomUser -- even plain old single pole mechanical lightswitches go bad :P (whether it be due to arc damage on the contacts or mechanical wear and tear)
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 4:31
@ThreePhaseEel Yes, that is true. Anything can go bad. However, those such light switches go bad at much less of a rate than DIY or commercial switching and dimming devices, so they make great backups to automation.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 15:09
add a comment |
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
I am retrofitting the main light in a room to be controlled by a home automation system, in this case, I'm using z-wave, but for purposes of this question, it could be any digital protocol.
I would like to have all switches that control the light do so using z-wave, and the actual dimmer circuit won't have a physical switch (it will be buried in the light fixture).
In other words, I will have no switches in the wall that actually break the connection or dim the light.
Is this ok from a code perspective? Does NEC have some kind of rule that I must have a switch in the room that physically controls the light?
If it's not ok, I'm looking for the particular part of the NEC that says that.
lighting home-automation nec
New contributor
I am retrofitting the main light in a room to be controlled by a home automation system, in this case, I'm using z-wave, but for purposes of this question, it could be any digital protocol.
I would like to have all switches that control the light do so using z-wave, and the actual dimmer circuit won't have a physical switch (it will be buried in the light fixture).
In other words, I will have no switches in the wall that actually break the connection or dim the light.
Is this ok from a code perspective? Does NEC have some kind of rule that I must have a switch in the room that physically controls the light?
If it's not ok, I'm looking for the particular part of the NEC that says that.
lighting home-automation nec
lighting home-automation nec
New contributor
New contributor
edited Dec 11 at 16:15
New contributor
asked Dec 10 at 21:06
Jim B.
1184
1184
New contributor
New contributor
Can you fit wallbox remotes/control panels at the expected lighting control locations?
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 10 at 23:54
I'd worry more about common sense, intended use cases, and what users of the space would expect, including fail conditions. Electronics fail, DIY projects fail, and commercial automation systems fail, so what will happen when this sytem fails? How will your users use it? I would always have a manual switch somewhere, unless there were other ways to get light in that space.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 3:22
@YetAnotherRandomUser -- even plain old single pole mechanical lightswitches go bad :P (whether it be due to arc damage on the contacts or mechanical wear and tear)
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 4:31
@ThreePhaseEel Yes, that is true. Anything can go bad. However, those such light switches go bad at much less of a rate than DIY or commercial switching and dimming devices, so they make great backups to automation.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 15:09
add a comment |
Can you fit wallbox remotes/control panels at the expected lighting control locations?
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 10 at 23:54
I'd worry more about common sense, intended use cases, and what users of the space would expect, including fail conditions. Electronics fail, DIY projects fail, and commercial automation systems fail, so what will happen when this sytem fails? How will your users use it? I would always have a manual switch somewhere, unless there were other ways to get light in that space.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 3:22
@YetAnotherRandomUser -- even plain old single pole mechanical lightswitches go bad :P (whether it be due to arc damage on the contacts or mechanical wear and tear)
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 4:31
@ThreePhaseEel Yes, that is true. Anything can go bad. However, those such light switches go bad at much less of a rate than DIY or commercial switching and dimming devices, so they make great backups to automation.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 15:09
Can you fit wallbox remotes/control panels at the expected lighting control locations?
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 10 at 23:54
Can you fit wallbox remotes/control panels at the expected lighting control locations?
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 10 at 23:54
I'd worry more about common sense, intended use cases, and what users of the space would expect, including fail conditions. Electronics fail, DIY projects fail, and commercial automation systems fail, so what will happen when this sytem fails? How will your users use it? I would always have a manual switch somewhere, unless there were other ways to get light in that space.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 3:22
I'd worry more about common sense, intended use cases, and what users of the space would expect, including fail conditions. Electronics fail, DIY projects fail, and commercial automation systems fail, so what will happen when this sytem fails? How will your users use it? I would always have a manual switch somewhere, unless there were other ways to get light in that space.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 3:22
@YetAnotherRandomUser -- even plain old single pole mechanical lightswitches go bad :P (whether it be due to arc damage on the contacts or mechanical wear and tear)
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 4:31
@YetAnotherRandomUser -- even plain old single pole mechanical lightswitches go bad :P (whether it be due to arc damage on the contacts or mechanical wear and tear)
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 4:31
@ThreePhaseEel Yes, that is true. Anything can go bad. However, those such light switches go bad at much less of a rate than DIY or commercial switching and dimming devices, so they make great backups to automation.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 15:09
@ThreePhaseEel Yes, that is true. Anything can go bad. However, those such light switches go bad at much less of a rate than DIY or commercial switching and dimming devices, so they make great backups to automation.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 15:09
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
up vote
4
down vote
accepted
The NEC requirement is that it be possible to turn on a light in a room, via a switch that is in a reasonably expected location.
If you need your phone to turn the light on, that's a no go.
NEC is not particular about whether the lamp is a permanently installed light, or a plug-in floor lamp. The floor lamp is allowed to have a switch on itself, which if turned off, defeats the room switch.
NEC is also not particular about the technology used, as long as it's listed. It just needs to work.
However, they may be other building codes which come to bear. There is also your local jurisdiction's interpretation, their local rules, and the ultimate nuke: the ability of the jurisdiction to revoke a home's occupancy permit if the arragement proves to be problematic.
Do you happen to know the section of the code that governs this?
– Jim B.
Dec 12 at 2:45
@JimB. NEC 210.70.
– Harper
Dec 12 at 5:02
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
This isn't as novel as you think
Many commercial buildings use a similar setup, with low-voltage wired controls at the switch locations on the wall talking to a central dimmer panel that handles the actual dimming duty for a set of lighting circuits, instead of using individual wallbox-mounted line-voltage controls. So, as long as the Z-wave remotes you plan to wall-mount are reliably powered (so they won't quit working unexpectedly due to a dead battery, for instance) and can provide the expected degree of lighting control, I think this will be fine.
Although not directly controlled won't the op need a "override" switch located in the room? It could talk to the z wave, I know I have to have over rides in commercial facilities, and thought the switched outlet or light was required in residential.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 0:36
@EdBeal -- the wired remote is the required switch in this case
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 3:06
I guess I don't see the physical switch the op said the controll would be in the fixture no switch in the room that's where I would think a problem may be.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 13:17
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function() {
var channelOptions = {
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "73"
};
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
createEditor();
});
}
else {
createEditor();
}
});
function createEditor() {
StackExchange.prepareEditor({
heartbeatType: 'answer',
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader: {
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
},
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
});
}
});
Jim B. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f152420%2fis-it-ok-to-have-a-light-that-can-only-be-controlled-via-automation%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
4
down vote
accepted
The NEC requirement is that it be possible to turn on a light in a room, via a switch that is in a reasonably expected location.
If you need your phone to turn the light on, that's a no go.
NEC is not particular about whether the lamp is a permanently installed light, or a plug-in floor lamp. The floor lamp is allowed to have a switch on itself, which if turned off, defeats the room switch.
NEC is also not particular about the technology used, as long as it's listed. It just needs to work.
However, they may be other building codes which come to bear. There is also your local jurisdiction's interpretation, their local rules, and the ultimate nuke: the ability of the jurisdiction to revoke a home's occupancy permit if the arragement proves to be problematic.
Do you happen to know the section of the code that governs this?
– Jim B.
Dec 12 at 2:45
@JimB. NEC 210.70.
– Harper
Dec 12 at 5:02
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
accepted
The NEC requirement is that it be possible to turn on a light in a room, via a switch that is in a reasonably expected location.
If you need your phone to turn the light on, that's a no go.
NEC is not particular about whether the lamp is a permanently installed light, or a plug-in floor lamp. The floor lamp is allowed to have a switch on itself, which if turned off, defeats the room switch.
NEC is also not particular about the technology used, as long as it's listed. It just needs to work.
However, they may be other building codes which come to bear. There is also your local jurisdiction's interpretation, their local rules, and the ultimate nuke: the ability of the jurisdiction to revoke a home's occupancy permit if the arragement proves to be problematic.
Do you happen to know the section of the code that governs this?
– Jim B.
Dec 12 at 2:45
@JimB. NEC 210.70.
– Harper
Dec 12 at 5:02
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
accepted
up vote
4
down vote
accepted
The NEC requirement is that it be possible to turn on a light in a room, via a switch that is in a reasonably expected location.
If you need your phone to turn the light on, that's a no go.
NEC is not particular about whether the lamp is a permanently installed light, or a plug-in floor lamp. The floor lamp is allowed to have a switch on itself, which if turned off, defeats the room switch.
NEC is also not particular about the technology used, as long as it's listed. It just needs to work.
However, they may be other building codes which come to bear. There is also your local jurisdiction's interpretation, their local rules, and the ultimate nuke: the ability of the jurisdiction to revoke a home's occupancy permit if the arragement proves to be problematic.
The NEC requirement is that it be possible to turn on a light in a room, via a switch that is in a reasonably expected location.
If you need your phone to turn the light on, that's a no go.
NEC is not particular about whether the lamp is a permanently installed light, or a plug-in floor lamp. The floor lamp is allowed to have a switch on itself, which if turned off, defeats the room switch.
NEC is also not particular about the technology used, as long as it's listed. It just needs to work.
However, they may be other building codes which come to bear. There is also your local jurisdiction's interpretation, their local rules, and the ultimate nuke: the ability of the jurisdiction to revoke a home's occupancy permit if the arragement proves to be problematic.
edited Dec 11 at 1:05
answered Dec 10 at 21:25
Harper
63.8k341130
63.8k341130
Do you happen to know the section of the code that governs this?
– Jim B.
Dec 12 at 2:45
@JimB. NEC 210.70.
– Harper
Dec 12 at 5:02
add a comment |
Do you happen to know the section of the code that governs this?
– Jim B.
Dec 12 at 2:45
@JimB. NEC 210.70.
– Harper
Dec 12 at 5:02
Do you happen to know the section of the code that governs this?
– Jim B.
Dec 12 at 2:45
Do you happen to know the section of the code that governs this?
– Jim B.
Dec 12 at 2:45
@JimB. NEC 210.70.
– Harper
Dec 12 at 5:02
@JimB. NEC 210.70.
– Harper
Dec 12 at 5:02
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
This isn't as novel as you think
Many commercial buildings use a similar setup, with low-voltage wired controls at the switch locations on the wall talking to a central dimmer panel that handles the actual dimming duty for a set of lighting circuits, instead of using individual wallbox-mounted line-voltage controls. So, as long as the Z-wave remotes you plan to wall-mount are reliably powered (so they won't quit working unexpectedly due to a dead battery, for instance) and can provide the expected degree of lighting control, I think this will be fine.
Although not directly controlled won't the op need a "override" switch located in the room? It could talk to the z wave, I know I have to have over rides in commercial facilities, and thought the switched outlet or light was required in residential.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 0:36
@EdBeal -- the wired remote is the required switch in this case
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 3:06
I guess I don't see the physical switch the op said the controll would be in the fixture no switch in the room that's where I would think a problem may be.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 13:17
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
This isn't as novel as you think
Many commercial buildings use a similar setup, with low-voltage wired controls at the switch locations on the wall talking to a central dimmer panel that handles the actual dimming duty for a set of lighting circuits, instead of using individual wallbox-mounted line-voltage controls. So, as long as the Z-wave remotes you plan to wall-mount are reliably powered (so they won't quit working unexpectedly due to a dead battery, for instance) and can provide the expected degree of lighting control, I think this will be fine.
Although not directly controlled won't the op need a "override" switch located in the room? It could talk to the z wave, I know I have to have over rides in commercial facilities, and thought the switched outlet or light was required in residential.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 0:36
@EdBeal -- the wired remote is the required switch in this case
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 3:06
I guess I don't see the physical switch the op said the controll would be in the fixture no switch in the room that's where I would think a problem may be.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 13:17
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
This isn't as novel as you think
Many commercial buildings use a similar setup, with low-voltage wired controls at the switch locations on the wall talking to a central dimmer panel that handles the actual dimming duty for a set of lighting circuits, instead of using individual wallbox-mounted line-voltage controls. So, as long as the Z-wave remotes you plan to wall-mount are reliably powered (so they won't quit working unexpectedly due to a dead battery, for instance) and can provide the expected degree of lighting control, I think this will be fine.
This isn't as novel as you think
Many commercial buildings use a similar setup, with low-voltage wired controls at the switch locations on the wall talking to a central dimmer panel that handles the actual dimming duty for a set of lighting circuits, instead of using individual wallbox-mounted line-voltage controls. So, as long as the Z-wave remotes you plan to wall-mount are reliably powered (so they won't quit working unexpectedly due to a dead battery, for instance) and can provide the expected degree of lighting control, I think this will be fine.
answered Dec 10 at 23:57
ThreePhaseEel
29.5k104590
29.5k104590
Although not directly controlled won't the op need a "override" switch located in the room? It could talk to the z wave, I know I have to have over rides in commercial facilities, and thought the switched outlet or light was required in residential.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 0:36
@EdBeal -- the wired remote is the required switch in this case
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 3:06
I guess I don't see the physical switch the op said the controll would be in the fixture no switch in the room that's where I would think a problem may be.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 13:17
add a comment |
Although not directly controlled won't the op need a "override" switch located in the room? It could talk to the z wave, I know I have to have over rides in commercial facilities, and thought the switched outlet or light was required in residential.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 0:36
@EdBeal -- the wired remote is the required switch in this case
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 3:06
I guess I don't see the physical switch the op said the controll would be in the fixture no switch in the room that's where I would think a problem may be.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 13:17
Although not directly controlled won't the op need a "override" switch located in the room? It could talk to the z wave, I know I have to have over rides in commercial facilities, and thought the switched outlet or light was required in residential.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 0:36
Although not directly controlled won't the op need a "override" switch located in the room? It could talk to the z wave, I know I have to have over rides in commercial facilities, and thought the switched outlet or light was required in residential.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 0:36
@EdBeal -- the wired remote is the required switch in this case
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 3:06
@EdBeal -- the wired remote is the required switch in this case
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 3:06
I guess I don't see the physical switch the op said the controll would be in the fixture no switch in the room that's where I would think a problem may be.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 13:17
I guess I don't see the physical switch the op said the controll would be in the fixture no switch in the room that's where I would think a problem may be.
– Ed Beal
Dec 11 at 13:17
add a comment |
Jim B. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Jim B. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Jim B. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Jim B. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Some of your past answers have not been well-received, and you're in danger of being blocked from answering.
Please pay close attention to the following guidance:
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f152420%2fis-it-ok-to-have-a-light-that-can-only-be-controlled-via-automation%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Can you fit wallbox remotes/control panels at the expected lighting control locations?
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 10 at 23:54
I'd worry more about common sense, intended use cases, and what users of the space would expect, including fail conditions. Electronics fail, DIY projects fail, and commercial automation systems fail, so what will happen when this sytem fails? How will your users use it? I would always have a manual switch somewhere, unless there were other ways to get light in that space.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 3:22
@YetAnotherRandomUser -- even plain old single pole mechanical lightswitches go bad :P (whether it be due to arc damage on the contacts or mechanical wear and tear)
– ThreePhaseEel
Dec 11 at 4:31
@ThreePhaseEel Yes, that is true. Anything can go bad. However, those such light switches go bad at much less of a rate than DIY or commercial switching and dimming devices, so they make great backups to automation.
– YetAnotherRandomUser
Dec 11 at 15:09