MK2 Golf 1.3 1985 cuts out after starting
I have a 1.3 VW Golf running a Pierburg 2e3 carb which has been off the road for at least 7 years. The problem I currently have is that the engine immediately cuts out when the key is in the run position in the ignition. There are no issues starting the car it fires up straight away.
Since owning the car, I've replaced the following with new parts:
- Battery
- Spark plugs
- Ignition switch
- Starter motor
- In line fuel filter
I've also stripped the carb (to the best of my ability) and replaced a couple of gaskets and diaphragms.
The engine gets fuel. I've removed the hose to the carb whilst cranking and see a good flow. Checking the spark plugs and they're wet.
I've not changed the ignition (HT) leads, but in my mind if the engine starts then they must be fine. Perhaps that is wrong? Likewise the ignition coil.
The only time I have had the engine running for any length of time was when I sprayed carb cleaner in to the carb. It immediately stalled when I moved the throttle.
One thing to note is that there is, I believe, a factory Quantum alarm installed. I don't have a fob for it, but the light in the cabin has never illuminated so perhaps it might not be armed. I wonder though if this might be acting as an immobiliser too, but I've not been able to find too much information about it online.
I'm hoping for some suggestions on what I can investigate over and above what I've already done.
Thanks
Mike
engine electrical starting vw golf
asked Mar 22 at 8:57
Michael Van RooyenMichael Van Rooyen
163
add a comment |
I have a 1.3 VW Golf running a Pierburg 2e3 carb which has been off the road for at least 7 years. The problem I currently have is that the engine immediately cuts out when the key is in the run position in the ignition. There are no issues starting the car it fires up straight away.
Since owning the car, I've replaced the following with new parts:
- Battery
- Spark plugs
- Ignition switch
- Starter motor
- In line fuel filter
I've also stripped the carb (to the best of my ability) and replaced a couple of gaskets and diaphragms.
The engine gets fuel. I've removed the hose to the carb whilst cranking and see a good flow. Checking the spark plugs and they're wet.
I've not changed the ignition (HT) leads, but in my mind if the engine starts then they must be fine. Perhaps that is wrong? Likewise the ignition coil.
The only time I have had the engine running for any length of time was when I sprayed carb cleaner in to the carb. It immediately stalled when I moved the throttle.
One thing to note is that there is, I believe, a factory Quantum alarm installed. I don't have a fob for it, but the light in the cabin has never illuminated so perhaps it might not be armed. I wonder though if this might be acting as an immobiliser too, but I've not been able to find too much information about it online.
I'm hoping for some suggestions on what I can investigate over and above what I've already done.
Thanks
Mike
engine electrical starting vw golf
asked Mar 22 at 8:57
Michael Van RooyenMichael Van Rooyen
163
add a comment |
I have a 1.3 VW Golf running a Pierburg 2e3 carb which has been off the road for at least 7 years. The problem I currently have is that the engine immediately cuts out when the key is in the run position in the ignition. There are no issues starting the car it fires up straight away.
Since owning the car, I've replaced the following with new parts:
- Battery
- Spark plugs
- Ignition switch
- Starter motor
- In line fuel filter
I've also stripped the carb (to the best of my ability) and replaced a couple of gaskets and diaphragms.
The engine gets fuel. I've removed the hose to the carb whilst cranking and see a good flow. Checking the spark plugs and they're wet.
I've not changed the ignition (HT) leads, but in my mind if the engine starts then they must be fine. Perhaps that is wrong? Likewise the ignition coil.
The only time I have had the engine running for any length of time was when I sprayed carb cleaner in to the carb. It immediately stalled when I moved the throttle.
One thing to note is that there is, I believe, a factory Quantum alarm installed. I don't have a fob for it, but the light in the cabin has never illuminated so perhaps it might not be armed. I wonder though if this might be acting as an immobiliser too, but I've not been able to find too much information about it online.
I'm hoping for some suggestions on what I can investigate over and above what I've already done.
Thanks
Mike
engine electrical starting vw golf
asked Mar 22 at 8:57
Michael Van RooyenMichael Van Rooyen
163
I have a 1.3 VW Golf running a Pierburg 2e3 carb which has been off the road for at least 7 years. The problem I currently have is that the engine immediately cuts out when the key is in the run position in the ignition. There are no issues starting the car it fires up straight away.
Since owning the car, I've replaced the following with new parts:
- Battery
- Spark plugs
- Ignition switch
- Starter motor
- In line fuel filter
I've also stripped the carb (to the best of my ability) and replaced a couple of gaskets and diaphragms.
The engine gets fuel. I've removed the hose to the carb whilst cranking and see a good flow. Checking the spark plugs and they're wet.
I've not changed the ignition (HT) leads, but in my mind if the engine starts then they must be fine. Perhaps that is wrong? Likewise the ignition coil.
The only time I have had the engine running for any length of time was when I sprayed carb cleaner in to the carb. It immediately stalled when I moved the throttle.
One thing to note is that there is, I believe, a factory Quantum alarm installed. I don't have a fob for it, but the light in the cabin has never illuminated so perhaps it might not be armed. I wonder though if this might be acting as an immobiliser too, but I've not been able to find too much information about it online.
I'm hoping for some suggestions on what I can investigate over and above what I've already done.
Thanks
Mike
engine electrical starting vw golf
engine electrical starting vw golf
asked Mar 22 at 8:57
Michael Van RooyenMichael Van Rooyen
163
asked Mar 22 at 8:57
Michael Van RooyenMichael Van Rooyen
163
edited Mar 22 at 11:01
Michael Van Rooyen
asked Mar 22 at 8:57
Michael Van RooyenMichael Van Rooyen
163
asked Mar 22 at 8:57
Michael Van RooyenMichael Van Rooyen
163
asked Mar 22 at 8:57
Michael Van RooyenMichael Van Rooyen
163
163
add a comment |
add a comment |
1 Answer
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Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! I have a 1985 MK1 Golf Cabriolet running a Pierburg 2e2 which I've had a number of issues with so hopefully I can help.
This car runs a mechanical fuel pump so if the engine is turning over, the fuel pump ought to be drawing fuel. The fact that it ran on carb cleaner suggests to me that it isn't getting fuel. It could very well be something like the needle valve is stuck closed, it may have a blocked jet or it may be an issue with the tiny fuel filter which is inserted inside the incoming fuel union on the top of the carburettor. However, one other thing to check is that the rubber "foot" upon which the carburettor is mounted isn't split or damaged.
I have quite a bit of experience with these carburettors, you might want to have a read of some of the excellent resources online. Here is the manual for the 2e2 (largely similar). Here is an excellent, step-by-step trouble shooting guide. Sky Rocket Automotive has some fantastic youtube videos all about the Pierburg carburettor found in these vehicles.
I fully realise that the idea of this site is to bring information here as opposed to linking to it but getting these carburettors to run reliably is quite a massive subject.
Good luck, update your question with any results and stick an answer here if you solve the problem.
answered Mar 22 at 10:06
Steve MatthewsSteve Matthews
20.4k23072
Thanks for your help @Steve-Matthews. I'm interested in the idea that the needle value is stuck as I think that is probably something I can replace. I'd already checked the filter in the incoming union. My only instinct that it isn't a fuelling issue is that the engine turns over and fires up so quickly, it's only at the run position does the engine cut out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
Mar 22 at 13:04
If it starts and runs briefly, try removing the vacuum union that attaches to the TTV (Thermo Time Valve). Either that or disconnect the wiring to the TTV. If this causes the engine to run at a high idle (say circa 3000RPM), then reconnect the vacuum hose. Next step is boiling the waxstat. There is a video on the youtube channel regarding this. If that doesn't allow the car to idle, check that the throttle plate is resting on the 3 point unit and adjust the 13mm idle adjust at the rear of this unit.
– Steve Matthews
Mar 22 at 13:20
Crack in plastic in the ignition switch? Been there done that, twice. Hint key ring weight matters.
– zipzit
Mar 23 at 1:07
@zipzit - I've already changed the ignition switch which rules that out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
2 days ago
An engine needs three things (plus) to run. Fuel, Air and spark. And there are quite a few paths for fuel to run thru the carburator. My guess is some parts of the carb are fine, while others are clogged with a micro amount of hardened old fuel (e.g. the accelerator 'pump' works fine, but not the venturi, normal flow system.) . Did you remove all the jets and needle valves when you did the rebuild? Note too, on some cars the ignition (spark system) runs differently in start mode, then it does in run mode. Possible to check that out?
– zipzit
2 days ago
add a comment |
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Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! I have a 1985 MK1 Golf Cabriolet running a Pierburg 2e2 which I've had a number of issues with so hopefully I can help.
This car runs a mechanical fuel pump so if the engine is turning over, the fuel pump ought to be drawing fuel. The fact that it ran on carb cleaner suggests to me that it isn't getting fuel. It could very well be something like the needle valve is stuck closed, it may have a blocked jet or it may be an issue with the tiny fuel filter which is inserted inside the incoming fuel union on the top of the carburettor. However, one other thing to check is that the rubber "foot" upon which the carburettor is mounted isn't split or damaged.
I have quite a bit of experience with these carburettors, you might want to have a read of some of the excellent resources online. Here is the manual for the 2e2 (largely similar). Here is an excellent, step-by-step trouble shooting guide. Sky Rocket Automotive has some fantastic youtube videos all about the Pierburg carburettor found in these vehicles.
I fully realise that the idea of this site is to bring information here as opposed to linking to it but getting these carburettors to run reliably is quite a massive subject.
Good luck, update your question with any results and stick an answer here if you solve the problem.
answered Mar 22 at 10:06
Steve MatthewsSteve Matthews
20.4k23072
Thanks for your help @Steve-Matthews. I'm interested in the idea that the needle value is stuck as I think that is probably something I can replace. I'd already checked the filter in the incoming union. My only instinct that it isn't a fuelling issue is that the engine turns over and fires up so quickly, it's only at the run position does the engine cut out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
Mar 22 at 13:04
If it starts and runs briefly, try removing the vacuum union that attaches to the TTV (Thermo Time Valve). Either that or disconnect the wiring to the TTV. If this causes the engine to run at a high idle (say circa 3000RPM), then reconnect the vacuum hose. Next step is boiling the waxstat. There is a video on the youtube channel regarding this. If that doesn't allow the car to idle, check that the throttle plate is resting on the 3 point unit and adjust the 13mm idle adjust at the rear of this unit.
– Steve Matthews
Mar 22 at 13:20
Crack in plastic in the ignition switch? Been there done that, twice. Hint key ring weight matters.
– zipzit
Mar 23 at 1:07
@zipzit - I've already changed the ignition switch which rules that out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
2 days ago
An engine needs three things (plus) to run. Fuel, Air and spark. And there are quite a few paths for fuel to run thru the carburator. My guess is some parts of the carb are fine, while others are clogged with a micro amount of hardened old fuel (e.g. the accelerator 'pump' works fine, but not the venturi, normal flow system.) . Did you remove all the jets and needle valves when you did the rebuild? Note too, on some cars the ignition (spark system) runs differently in start mode, then it does in run mode. Possible to check that out?
– zipzit
2 days ago
add a comment |
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! I have a 1985 MK1 Golf Cabriolet running a Pierburg 2e2 which I've had a number of issues with so hopefully I can help.
This car runs a mechanical fuel pump so if the engine is turning over, the fuel pump ought to be drawing fuel. The fact that it ran on carb cleaner suggests to me that it isn't getting fuel. It could very well be something like the needle valve is stuck closed, it may have a blocked jet or it may be an issue with the tiny fuel filter which is inserted inside the incoming fuel union on the top of the carburettor. However, one other thing to check is that the rubber "foot" upon which the carburettor is mounted isn't split or damaged.
I have quite a bit of experience with these carburettors, you might want to have a read of some of the excellent resources online. Here is the manual for the 2e2 (largely similar). Here is an excellent, step-by-step trouble shooting guide. Sky Rocket Automotive has some fantastic youtube videos all about the Pierburg carburettor found in these vehicles.
I fully realise that the idea of this site is to bring information here as opposed to linking to it but getting these carburettors to run reliably is quite a massive subject.
Good luck, update your question with any results and stick an answer here if you solve the problem.
answered Mar 22 at 10:06
Steve MatthewsSteve Matthews
20.4k23072
Thanks for your help @Steve-Matthews. I'm interested in the idea that the needle value is stuck as I think that is probably something I can replace. I'd already checked the filter in the incoming union. My only instinct that it isn't a fuelling issue is that the engine turns over and fires up so quickly, it's only at the run position does the engine cut out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
Mar 22 at 13:04
If it starts and runs briefly, try removing the vacuum union that attaches to the TTV (Thermo Time Valve). Either that or disconnect the wiring to the TTV. If this causes the engine to run at a high idle (say circa 3000RPM), then reconnect the vacuum hose. Next step is boiling the waxstat. There is a video on the youtube channel regarding this. If that doesn't allow the car to idle, check that the throttle plate is resting on the 3 point unit and adjust the 13mm idle adjust at the rear of this unit.
– Steve Matthews
Mar 22 at 13:20
Crack in plastic in the ignition switch? Been there done that, twice. Hint key ring weight matters.
– zipzit
Mar 23 at 1:07
@zipzit - I've already changed the ignition switch which rules that out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
2 days ago
An engine needs three things (plus) to run. Fuel, Air and spark. And there are quite a few paths for fuel to run thru the carburator. My guess is some parts of the carb are fine, while others are clogged with a micro amount of hardened old fuel (e.g. the accelerator 'pump' works fine, but not the venturi, normal flow system.) . Did you remove all the jets and needle valves when you did the rebuild? Note too, on some cars the ignition (spark system) runs differently in start mode, then it does in run mode. Possible to check that out?
– zipzit
2 days ago
add a comment |
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! I have a 1985 MK1 Golf Cabriolet running a Pierburg 2e2 which I've had a number of issues with so hopefully I can help.
This car runs a mechanical fuel pump so if the engine is turning over, the fuel pump ought to be drawing fuel. The fact that it ran on carb cleaner suggests to me that it isn't getting fuel. It could very well be something like the needle valve is stuck closed, it may have a blocked jet or it may be an issue with the tiny fuel filter which is inserted inside the incoming fuel union on the top of the carburettor. However, one other thing to check is that the rubber "foot" upon which the carburettor is mounted isn't split or damaged.
I have quite a bit of experience with these carburettors, you might want to have a read of some of the excellent resources online. Here is the manual for the 2e2 (largely similar). Here is an excellent, step-by-step trouble shooting guide. Sky Rocket Automotive has some fantastic youtube videos all about the Pierburg carburettor found in these vehicles.
I fully realise that the idea of this site is to bring information here as opposed to linking to it but getting these carburettors to run reliably is quite a massive subject.
Good luck, update your question with any results and stick an answer here if you solve the problem.
answered Mar 22 at 10:06
Steve MatthewsSteve Matthews
20.4k23072
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! I have a 1985 MK1 Golf Cabriolet running a Pierburg 2e2 which I've had a number of issues with so hopefully I can help.
This car runs a mechanical fuel pump so if the engine is turning over, the fuel pump ought to be drawing fuel. The fact that it ran on carb cleaner suggests to me that it isn't getting fuel. It could very well be something like the needle valve is stuck closed, it may have a blocked jet or it may be an issue with the tiny fuel filter which is inserted inside the incoming fuel union on the top of the carburettor. However, one other thing to check is that the rubber "foot" upon which the carburettor is mounted isn't split or damaged.
I have quite a bit of experience with these carburettors, you might want to have a read of some of the excellent resources online. Here is the manual for the 2e2 (largely similar). Here is an excellent, step-by-step trouble shooting guide. Sky Rocket Automotive has some fantastic youtube videos all about the Pierburg carburettor found in these vehicles.
I fully realise that the idea of this site is to bring information here as opposed to linking to it but getting these carburettors to run reliably is quite a massive subject.
Good luck, update your question with any results and stick an answer here if you solve the problem.
answered Mar 22 at 10:06
Steve MatthewsSteve Matthews
20.4k23072
answered Mar 22 at 10:06
Steve MatthewsSteve Matthews
20.4k23072
answered Mar 22 at 10:06
Steve MatthewsSteve Matthews
20.4k23072
answered Mar 22 at 10:06
Steve MatthewsSteve Matthews
20.4k23072
20.4k23072
Thanks for your help @Steve-Matthews. I'm interested in the idea that the needle value is stuck as I think that is probably something I can replace. I'd already checked the filter in the incoming union. My only instinct that it isn't a fuelling issue is that the engine turns over and fires up so quickly, it's only at the run position does the engine cut out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
Mar 22 at 13:04
If it starts and runs briefly, try removing the vacuum union that attaches to the TTV (Thermo Time Valve). Either that or disconnect the wiring to the TTV. If this causes the engine to run at a high idle (say circa 3000RPM), then reconnect the vacuum hose. Next step is boiling the waxstat. There is a video on the youtube channel regarding this. If that doesn't allow the car to idle, check that the throttle plate is resting on the 3 point unit and adjust the 13mm idle adjust at the rear of this unit.
– Steve Matthews
Mar 22 at 13:20
Crack in plastic in the ignition switch? Been there done that, twice. Hint key ring weight matters.
– zipzit
Mar 23 at 1:07
@zipzit - I've already changed the ignition switch which rules that out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
2 days ago
An engine needs three things (plus) to run. Fuel, Air and spark. And there are quite a few paths for fuel to run thru the carburator. My guess is some parts of the carb are fine, while others are clogged with a micro amount of hardened old fuel (e.g. the accelerator 'pump' works fine, but not the venturi, normal flow system.) . Did you remove all the jets and needle valves when you did the rebuild? Note too, on some cars the ignition (spark system) runs differently in start mode, then it does in run mode. Possible to check that out?
– zipzit
2 days ago
add a comment |
Thanks for your help @Steve-Matthews. I'm interested in the idea that the needle value is stuck as I think that is probably something I can replace. I'd already checked the filter in the incoming union. My only instinct that it isn't a fuelling issue is that the engine turns over and fires up so quickly, it's only at the run position does the engine cut out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
Mar 22 at 13:04
If it starts and runs briefly, try removing the vacuum union that attaches to the TTV (Thermo Time Valve). Either that or disconnect the wiring to the TTV. If this causes the engine to run at a high idle (say circa 3000RPM), then reconnect the vacuum hose. Next step is boiling the waxstat. There is a video on the youtube channel regarding this. If that doesn't allow the car to idle, check that the throttle plate is resting on the 3 point unit and adjust the 13mm idle adjust at the rear of this unit.
– Steve Matthews
Mar 22 at 13:20
Crack in plastic in the ignition switch? Been there done that, twice. Hint key ring weight matters.
– zipzit
Mar 23 at 1:07
@zipzit - I've already changed the ignition switch which rules that out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
2 days ago
An engine needs three things (plus) to run. Fuel, Air and spark. And there are quite a few paths for fuel to run thru the carburator. My guess is some parts of the carb are fine, while others are clogged with a micro amount of hardened old fuel (e.g. the accelerator 'pump' works fine, but not the venturi, normal flow system.) . Did you remove all the jets and needle valves when you did the rebuild? Note too, on some cars the ignition (spark system) runs differently in start mode, then it does in run mode. Possible to check that out?
– zipzit
2 days ago
Thanks for your help @Steve-Matthews. I'm interested in the idea that the needle value is stuck as I think that is probably something I can replace. I'd already checked the filter in the incoming union. My only instinct that it isn't a fuelling issue is that the engine turns over and fires up so quickly, it's only at the run position does the engine cut out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
Mar 22 at 13:04
Thanks for your help @Steve-Matthews. I'm interested in the idea that the needle value is stuck as I think that is probably something I can replace. I'd already checked the filter in the incoming union. My only instinct that it isn't a fuelling issue is that the engine turns over and fires up so quickly, it's only at the run position does the engine cut out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
Mar 22 at 13:04
If it starts and runs briefly, try removing the vacuum union that attaches to the TTV (Thermo Time Valve). Either that or disconnect the wiring to the TTV. If this causes the engine to run at a high idle (say circa 3000RPM), then reconnect the vacuum hose. Next step is boiling the waxstat. There is a video on the youtube channel regarding this. If that doesn't allow the car to idle, check that the throttle plate is resting on the 3 point unit and adjust the 13mm idle adjust at the rear of this unit.
– Steve Matthews
Mar 22 at 13:20
If it starts and runs briefly, try removing the vacuum union that attaches to the TTV (Thermo Time Valve). Either that or disconnect the wiring to the TTV. If this causes the engine to run at a high idle (say circa 3000RPM), then reconnect the vacuum hose. Next step is boiling the waxstat. There is a video on the youtube channel regarding this. If that doesn't allow the car to idle, check that the throttle plate is resting on the 3 point unit and adjust the 13mm idle adjust at the rear of this unit.
– Steve Matthews
Mar 22 at 13:20
Crack in plastic in the ignition switch? Been there done that, twice. Hint key ring weight matters.
– zipzit
Mar 23 at 1:07
Crack in plastic in the ignition switch? Been there done that, twice. Hint key ring weight matters.
– zipzit
Mar 23 at 1:07
@zipzit - I've already changed the ignition switch which rules that out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
2 days ago
@zipzit - I've already changed the ignition switch which rules that out.
– Michael Van Rooyen
2 days ago
An engine needs three things (plus) to run. Fuel, Air and spark. And there are quite a few paths for fuel to run thru the carburator. My guess is some parts of the carb are fine, while others are clogged with a micro amount of hardened old fuel (e.g. the accelerator 'pump' works fine, but not the venturi, normal flow system.) . Did you remove all the jets and needle valves when you did the rebuild? Note too, on some cars the ignition (spark system) runs differently in start mode, then it does in run mode. Possible to check that out?
– zipzit
2 days ago
An engine needs three things (plus) to run. Fuel, Air and spark. And there are quite a few paths for fuel to run thru the carburator. My guess is some parts of the carb are fine, while others are clogged with a micro amount of hardened old fuel (e.g. the accelerator 'pump' works fine, but not the venturi, normal flow system.) . Did you remove all the jets and needle valves when you did the rebuild? Note too, on some cars the ignition (spark system) runs differently in start mode, then it does in run mode. Possible to check that out?
– zipzit
2 days ago
add a comment |
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