Small nick on power cord from an electric alarm clock, and copper wiring exposed but intact
I bought a vintage alarm clock and radio. It works perfectly, but it took me a day to discover that along the length of the cord, there is a small nick, which revealed a small bit of copper wire, which doesn't seem frayed at all.
The cord is unpolarized, and plugs into 120V AC without any transformer "box".
Before the nick was discovered, the clock ran perfectly for a day and a half before unplugging.
I bought a spool of 3M Super 88 electrical tape and thinking of wrapping it up.
Would that be enough, or would it be still unsafe?
electrical appliances
New contributor
add a comment |
I bought a vintage alarm clock and radio. It works perfectly, but it took me a day to discover that along the length of the cord, there is a small nick, which revealed a small bit of copper wire, which doesn't seem frayed at all.
The cord is unpolarized, and plugs into 120V AC without any transformer "box".
Before the nick was discovered, the clock ran perfectly for a day and a half before unplugging.
I bought a spool of 3M Super 88 electrical tape and thinking of wrapping it up.
Would that be enough, or would it be still unsafe?
electrical appliances
New contributor
ever heard of Apollo 1? frayed wiring is no bueno
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
11
@NKCampbell The problem with Apollo 1 was not frayed wiring. It was a pure oxygen atmosphere.
– vidarlo
2 days ago
that too @vidarlo :)
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
1
It looked fine until I zoomed in. That 'nick' is a gash in a section of mutilated cable with a laceration that you can't even see the extent of in one picture.
– Mazura
yesterday
add a comment |
I bought a vintage alarm clock and radio. It works perfectly, but it took me a day to discover that along the length of the cord, there is a small nick, which revealed a small bit of copper wire, which doesn't seem frayed at all.
The cord is unpolarized, and plugs into 120V AC without any transformer "box".
Before the nick was discovered, the clock ran perfectly for a day and a half before unplugging.
I bought a spool of 3M Super 88 electrical tape and thinking of wrapping it up.
Would that be enough, or would it be still unsafe?
electrical appliances
New contributor
I bought a vintage alarm clock and radio. It works perfectly, but it took me a day to discover that along the length of the cord, there is a small nick, which revealed a small bit of copper wire, which doesn't seem frayed at all.
The cord is unpolarized, and plugs into 120V AC without any transformer "box".
Before the nick was discovered, the clock ran perfectly for a day and a half before unplugging.
I bought a spool of 3M Super 88 electrical tape and thinking of wrapping it up.
Would that be enough, or would it be still unsafe?
electrical appliances
electrical appliances
New contributor
New contributor
New contributor
asked Apr 1 at 0:09
DavidDavid
7114
7114
New contributor
New contributor
ever heard of Apollo 1? frayed wiring is no bueno
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
11
@NKCampbell The problem with Apollo 1 was not frayed wiring. It was a pure oxygen atmosphere.
– vidarlo
2 days ago
that too @vidarlo :)
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
1
It looked fine until I zoomed in. That 'nick' is a gash in a section of mutilated cable with a laceration that you can't even see the extent of in one picture.
– Mazura
yesterday
add a comment |
ever heard of Apollo 1? frayed wiring is no bueno
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
11
@NKCampbell The problem with Apollo 1 was not frayed wiring. It was a pure oxygen atmosphere.
– vidarlo
2 days ago
that too @vidarlo :)
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
1
It looked fine until I zoomed in. That 'nick' is a gash in a section of mutilated cable with a laceration that you can't even see the extent of in one picture.
– Mazura
yesterday
ever heard of Apollo 1? frayed wiring is no bueno
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
ever heard of Apollo 1? frayed wiring is no bueno
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
11
11
@NKCampbell The problem with Apollo 1 was not frayed wiring. It was a pure oxygen atmosphere.
– vidarlo
2 days ago
@NKCampbell The problem with Apollo 1 was not frayed wiring. It was a pure oxygen atmosphere.
– vidarlo
2 days ago
that too @vidarlo :)
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
that too @vidarlo :)
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
1
1
It looked fine until I zoomed in. That 'nick' is a gash in a section of mutilated cable with a laceration that you can't even see the extent of in one picture.
– Mazura
yesterday
It looked fine until I zoomed in. That 'nick' is a gash in a section of mutilated cable with a laceration that you can't even see the extent of in one picture.
– Mazura
yesterday
add a comment |
7 Answers
7
active
oldest
votes
That cable, as is, will tend to "bite people". It also has damage that could increase resistance there causing that spot in the cable to get hot. Continued flexing will worsen the wire damage and the heating.
An electrical-tape repair will work temporarily, but I would not resell it like that.
The right way is take your time and find a gray power cord of very similar style, open up the clock and replace the cable.
10
Well, it doesn't have to be very similar, unless you want it to be.
– immibis
Apr 1 at 1:48
25
If the nick is towards the plug end and you could live with a shorter lead, you could also just cut the cable just before the nick, and put a plug on the cable that remains.
– Muzer
2 days ago
4
It's an alarm clock / radio. The current through the cord is negligible, like under 100mA (even with an inefficient power supply, 12 Watts for the clock is probably an over-estimate). The OP says the wire is intact, just showing through the insulation, so at this point the damage won't be increasing resistance. Further damage could, yes. For your own use, with no kids around that could peel off the tape, yes tape is fine for this little damage. If this was a more power-hungry appliance, your concern about resistance would be much more justified.
– Peter Cordes
yesterday
2
@Christian The plastic insulation on old cables tends to become brittle and crack on its own, and even new they were much less flexible than modern ones. But your version is more amusing =)
– Alex Shpilkin
yesterday
2
So here is more detail. @PeterCordes the clock uses 9 watts of power, and I don't really plan on moving it around that much, so it's just going to sit on a desk for most of the time. I am currently at university at the moment and don't have access to hardware such as solder (although I am not confident at soldering, nor any complicated electrical work.) As of now I have applied several turns of electrical tape, and so far nothing bad has happened. Long term, I may replace the plug, since it looks easy and it isn't that far in from the plug. It's 1/4 of the cord length.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
It depends. The proper procedure would of course be to replace the cord, but from a safety perspective, insulating tape will work. It may be against regulation, and if you have kids or pets around it may be unadvisable.
The main problem is that tape tends to sag and move over time. A better solution than electrical tape would be either zipper tube, which is heat shrink tube that is closed with a zipper, or vulcanizing tape.
Zipper heat shrink tube without glue will provide a lasting insulation. You can even split the conductors, insulate them with a heat shrink tube each to their own, and then an overall shrink tube to keep it together. If you need waterproof (you probably don't), the tubes with thermoglue will provide that.
Same goes for self-vulcanizing tape. It will provide a perfect seal that doesn't sag or slip. You could insulate each conductor individually to ensure that there will be no short circuit.
Either of these are likely to cost as much as, or more, than replacing the cord. Either would be entirely fine from a safety perspective.
add a comment |
Insulating tape will make it safe in the short term. In the long term (or if accessible to pets or children) it can come off or be pulled off.
It is often hard to replace the power cord. Sometimes the case of the appliance is impossible to open. Other times the cable restraint/grommet is moulded onto the appliance end, and no other piece of cable could be secured.
I'd cut the plug off the other end (if moulded on), slide heat-shrink tubing along to cover the nick, and shrink it into place. Then attach a re-wireable plug. Self-amalgamating tape is another possibility, but in my experience it goes gooey with age. Not necessarily unsafe, but not nice. A third possibility is an in-line cable joiner. Cut the cable at the nick, and join the conductors inside the in-line joiner. Some designs of joiner you could simply put the damaged cable inside the body of the joiner and secure it on both sides of the nick without actually cutting the cable at all.
Heat-shrink tube is by far the neatest.
None of this is advising whether these measures are legal under any particular wiring code. Just what I'd regard as making it safe, bearing in mind it's a clock, not, say, a hedge-trimmer that gets carried around and used outside in a wet environment.
2
"short term" meaning "time to go and fix it properly" and not "a couple of years"
– Criggie
2 days ago
add a comment |
Never take chances with electricity. Remove the damaged device from those who might use it. Find the correct gauge cord and replace the entire damaged cord.
New contributor
11
"Never take chances" doesn't mean that there's no safe repair for nicked insulation!
– vidarlo
2 days ago
add a comment |
What you have there is free access (50% of the time) to the live / hot conductor for a passing finger or other part of your anatomy. If you have an earth leakage device (RCD, might have a different name in the USA which 120V points to being your country) in your mains supply, you'll cause it to trip if you touch it and are grounded... turning off the power to that circuit. It'll hurt. If you don't have an earth leakage device the hurt could be fatal.
Proper insulating tape will work as a makeshift repair but you shouldn't rely on tape for a long-term repair to exposed wiring - the adhesive may perish, the over-wrap may slide up or down the cable, children might unwrap it to see what was underneath. Replacing the cable is a good option but will involve opening the machine and may need soldering. Shortening the cable is a good option. Cutting the cable at the damage and using a cable joiner is a safe but less good option... it depends where the fault is along the length of the cable.
New contributor
add a comment |
If you're sure the wiring inside the cord isn't damaged, you can probably make a simple repair to the insulation. Zip cord is typically made of a vinyl (poly-vinyl chloride) material and you may be able to find a solvent, like for PVC "plastic" plumbing, that would dissolve the insulation enough to reform it to seal the tear, if there isn't a chunk missing. If there is material missing, perhaps a vinyl repair product would also work.
Since you made a point of mentioning it was vintage, I think these suggestions will give you the most attractive resolution.
I've seen chewed cords and this one looks like it had been caught under a piece of furniture or closed in a drawer. The stretching doesn't suggest teeth marks.
Leaving the cord alone shouldn't affect the operation of your device. Rather, it's a safety issue. Electrical tape would prevent contact with the wiring, but it's not an attractive option. Using a vinyl adhesive or patching product would restore the integrity of the insulation without compromising aesthetics.
If the wiring is actually damaged, though, replacement or shortening the cord to removed the damaged area is best.
New contributor
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. I reeeeeeeeallly wouldn't recommend using a solvent on cable insulation; you could cause entertaining delayed effects, up to and including house fires.
– Daniel Griscom
yesterday
add a comment |
put some tape around it and move on. The original insulation is just a coating. Tape is just a coating. Because it is tape it isn't any good?
Someone made a comment about the tape being able to be pulled off. Yes, if someone is "trying" to pull it off. Someone could try to pull of the original insulation also. Wrap it well with tape. Then wrap it again with tape. Put it on the table and enjoy it.
New contributor
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function() {
var channelOptions = {
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "73"
};
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
createEditor();
});
}
else {
createEditor();
}
});
function createEditor() {
StackExchange.prepareEditor({
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader: {
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
},
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
});
}
});
David is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f161089%2fsmall-nick-on-power-cord-from-an-electric-alarm-clock-and-copper-wiring-exposed%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
7 Answers
7
active
oldest
votes
7 Answers
7
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
That cable, as is, will tend to "bite people". It also has damage that could increase resistance there causing that spot in the cable to get hot. Continued flexing will worsen the wire damage and the heating.
An electrical-tape repair will work temporarily, but I would not resell it like that.
The right way is take your time and find a gray power cord of very similar style, open up the clock and replace the cable.
10
Well, it doesn't have to be very similar, unless you want it to be.
– immibis
Apr 1 at 1:48
25
If the nick is towards the plug end and you could live with a shorter lead, you could also just cut the cable just before the nick, and put a plug on the cable that remains.
– Muzer
2 days ago
4
It's an alarm clock / radio. The current through the cord is negligible, like under 100mA (even with an inefficient power supply, 12 Watts for the clock is probably an over-estimate). The OP says the wire is intact, just showing through the insulation, so at this point the damage won't be increasing resistance. Further damage could, yes. For your own use, with no kids around that could peel off the tape, yes tape is fine for this little damage. If this was a more power-hungry appliance, your concern about resistance would be much more justified.
– Peter Cordes
yesterday
2
@Christian The plastic insulation on old cables tends to become brittle and crack on its own, and even new they were much less flexible than modern ones. But your version is more amusing =)
– Alex Shpilkin
yesterday
2
So here is more detail. @PeterCordes the clock uses 9 watts of power, and I don't really plan on moving it around that much, so it's just going to sit on a desk for most of the time. I am currently at university at the moment and don't have access to hardware such as solder (although I am not confident at soldering, nor any complicated electrical work.) As of now I have applied several turns of electrical tape, and so far nothing bad has happened. Long term, I may replace the plug, since it looks easy and it isn't that far in from the plug. It's 1/4 of the cord length.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
That cable, as is, will tend to "bite people". It also has damage that could increase resistance there causing that spot in the cable to get hot. Continued flexing will worsen the wire damage and the heating.
An electrical-tape repair will work temporarily, but I would not resell it like that.
The right way is take your time and find a gray power cord of very similar style, open up the clock and replace the cable.
10
Well, it doesn't have to be very similar, unless you want it to be.
– immibis
Apr 1 at 1:48
25
If the nick is towards the plug end and you could live with a shorter lead, you could also just cut the cable just before the nick, and put a plug on the cable that remains.
– Muzer
2 days ago
4
It's an alarm clock / radio. The current through the cord is negligible, like under 100mA (even with an inefficient power supply, 12 Watts for the clock is probably an over-estimate). The OP says the wire is intact, just showing through the insulation, so at this point the damage won't be increasing resistance. Further damage could, yes. For your own use, with no kids around that could peel off the tape, yes tape is fine for this little damage. If this was a more power-hungry appliance, your concern about resistance would be much more justified.
– Peter Cordes
yesterday
2
@Christian The plastic insulation on old cables tends to become brittle and crack on its own, and even new they were much less flexible than modern ones. But your version is more amusing =)
– Alex Shpilkin
yesterday
2
So here is more detail. @PeterCordes the clock uses 9 watts of power, and I don't really plan on moving it around that much, so it's just going to sit on a desk for most of the time. I am currently at university at the moment and don't have access to hardware such as solder (although I am not confident at soldering, nor any complicated electrical work.) As of now I have applied several turns of electrical tape, and so far nothing bad has happened. Long term, I may replace the plug, since it looks easy and it isn't that far in from the plug. It's 1/4 of the cord length.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
That cable, as is, will tend to "bite people". It also has damage that could increase resistance there causing that spot in the cable to get hot. Continued flexing will worsen the wire damage and the heating.
An electrical-tape repair will work temporarily, but I would not resell it like that.
The right way is take your time and find a gray power cord of very similar style, open up the clock and replace the cable.
That cable, as is, will tend to "bite people". It also has damage that could increase resistance there causing that spot in the cable to get hot. Continued flexing will worsen the wire damage and the heating.
An electrical-tape repair will work temporarily, but I would not resell it like that.
The right way is take your time and find a gray power cord of very similar style, open up the clock and replace the cable.
answered Apr 1 at 0:14
HarperHarper
75.5k449152
75.5k449152
10
Well, it doesn't have to be very similar, unless you want it to be.
– immibis
Apr 1 at 1:48
25
If the nick is towards the plug end and you could live with a shorter lead, you could also just cut the cable just before the nick, and put a plug on the cable that remains.
– Muzer
2 days ago
4
It's an alarm clock / radio. The current through the cord is negligible, like under 100mA (even with an inefficient power supply, 12 Watts for the clock is probably an over-estimate). The OP says the wire is intact, just showing through the insulation, so at this point the damage won't be increasing resistance. Further damage could, yes. For your own use, with no kids around that could peel off the tape, yes tape is fine for this little damage. If this was a more power-hungry appliance, your concern about resistance would be much more justified.
– Peter Cordes
yesterday
2
@Christian The plastic insulation on old cables tends to become brittle and crack on its own, and even new they were much less flexible than modern ones. But your version is more amusing =)
– Alex Shpilkin
yesterday
2
So here is more detail. @PeterCordes the clock uses 9 watts of power, and I don't really plan on moving it around that much, so it's just going to sit on a desk for most of the time. I am currently at university at the moment and don't have access to hardware such as solder (although I am not confident at soldering, nor any complicated electrical work.) As of now I have applied several turns of electrical tape, and so far nothing bad has happened. Long term, I may replace the plug, since it looks easy and it isn't that far in from the plug. It's 1/4 of the cord length.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
10
Well, it doesn't have to be very similar, unless you want it to be.
– immibis
Apr 1 at 1:48
25
If the nick is towards the plug end and you could live with a shorter lead, you could also just cut the cable just before the nick, and put a plug on the cable that remains.
– Muzer
2 days ago
4
It's an alarm clock / radio. The current through the cord is negligible, like under 100mA (even with an inefficient power supply, 12 Watts for the clock is probably an over-estimate). The OP says the wire is intact, just showing through the insulation, so at this point the damage won't be increasing resistance. Further damage could, yes. For your own use, with no kids around that could peel off the tape, yes tape is fine for this little damage. If this was a more power-hungry appliance, your concern about resistance would be much more justified.
– Peter Cordes
yesterday
2
@Christian The plastic insulation on old cables tends to become brittle and crack on its own, and even new they were much less flexible than modern ones. But your version is more amusing =)
– Alex Shpilkin
yesterday
2
So here is more detail. @PeterCordes the clock uses 9 watts of power, and I don't really plan on moving it around that much, so it's just going to sit on a desk for most of the time. I am currently at university at the moment and don't have access to hardware such as solder (although I am not confident at soldering, nor any complicated electrical work.) As of now I have applied several turns of electrical tape, and so far nothing bad has happened. Long term, I may replace the plug, since it looks easy and it isn't that far in from the plug. It's 1/4 of the cord length.
– David
yesterday
10
10
Well, it doesn't have to be very similar, unless you want it to be.
– immibis
Apr 1 at 1:48
Well, it doesn't have to be very similar, unless you want it to be.
– immibis
Apr 1 at 1:48
25
25
If the nick is towards the plug end and you could live with a shorter lead, you could also just cut the cable just before the nick, and put a plug on the cable that remains.
– Muzer
2 days ago
If the nick is towards the plug end and you could live with a shorter lead, you could also just cut the cable just before the nick, and put a plug on the cable that remains.
– Muzer
2 days ago
4
4
It's an alarm clock / radio. The current through the cord is negligible, like under 100mA (even with an inefficient power supply, 12 Watts for the clock is probably an over-estimate). The OP says the wire is intact, just showing through the insulation, so at this point the damage won't be increasing resistance. Further damage could, yes. For your own use, with no kids around that could peel off the tape, yes tape is fine for this little damage. If this was a more power-hungry appliance, your concern about resistance would be much more justified.
– Peter Cordes
yesterday
It's an alarm clock / radio. The current through the cord is negligible, like under 100mA (even with an inefficient power supply, 12 Watts for the clock is probably an over-estimate). The OP says the wire is intact, just showing through the insulation, so at this point the damage won't be increasing resistance. Further damage could, yes. For your own use, with no kids around that could peel off the tape, yes tape is fine for this little damage. If this was a more power-hungry appliance, your concern about resistance would be much more justified.
– Peter Cordes
yesterday
2
2
@Christian The plastic insulation on old cables tends to become brittle and crack on its own, and even new they were much less flexible than modern ones. But your version is more amusing =)
– Alex Shpilkin
yesterday
@Christian The plastic insulation on old cables tends to become brittle and crack on its own, and even new they were much less flexible than modern ones. But your version is more amusing =)
– Alex Shpilkin
yesterday
2
2
So here is more detail. @PeterCordes the clock uses 9 watts of power, and I don't really plan on moving it around that much, so it's just going to sit on a desk for most of the time. I am currently at university at the moment and don't have access to hardware such as solder (although I am not confident at soldering, nor any complicated electrical work.) As of now I have applied several turns of electrical tape, and so far nothing bad has happened. Long term, I may replace the plug, since it looks easy and it isn't that far in from the plug. It's 1/4 of the cord length.
– David
yesterday
So here is more detail. @PeterCordes the clock uses 9 watts of power, and I don't really plan on moving it around that much, so it's just going to sit on a desk for most of the time. I am currently at university at the moment and don't have access to hardware such as solder (although I am not confident at soldering, nor any complicated electrical work.) As of now I have applied several turns of electrical tape, and so far nothing bad has happened. Long term, I may replace the plug, since it looks easy and it isn't that far in from the plug. It's 1/4 of the cord length.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
It depends. The proper procedure would of course be to replace the cord, but from a safety perspective, insulating tape will work. It may be against regulation, and if you have kids or pets around it may be unadvisable.
The main problem is that tape tends to sag and move over time. A better solution than electrical tape would be either zipper tube, which is heat shrink tube that is closed with a zipper, or vulcanizing tape.
Zipper heat shrink tube without glue will provide a lasting insulation. You can even split the conductors, insulate them with a heat shrink tube each to their own, and then an overall shrink tube to keep it together. If you need waterproof (you probably don't), the tubes with thermoglue will provide that.
Same goes for self-vulcanizing tape. It will provide a perfect seal that doesn't sag or slip. You could insulate each conductor individually to ensure that there will be no short circuit.
Either of these are likely to cost as much as, or more, than replacing the cord. Either would be entirely fine from a safety perspective.
add a comment |
It depends. The proper procedure would of course be to replace the cord, but from a safety perspective, insulating tape will work. It may be against regulation, and if you have kids or pets around it may be unadvisable.
The main problem is that tape tends to sag and move over time. A better solution than electrical tape would be either zipper tube, which is heat shrink tube that is closed with a zipper, or vulcanizing tape.
Zipper heat shrink tube without glue will provide a lasting insulation. You can even split the conductors, insulate them with a heat shrink tube each to their own, and then an overall shrink tube to keep it together. If you need waterproof (you probably don't), the tubes with thermoglue will provide that.
Same goes for self-vulcanizing tape. It will provide a perfect seal that doesn't sag or slip. You could insulate each conductor individually to ensure that there will be no short circuit.
Either of these are likely to cost as much as, or more, than replacing the cord. Either would be entirely fine from a safety perspective.
add a comment |
It depends. The proper procedure would of course be to replace the cord, but from a safety perspective, insulating tape will work. It may be against regulation, and if you have kids or pets around it may be unadvisable.
The main problem is that tape tends to sag and move over time. A better solution than electrical tape would be either zipper tube, which is heat shrink tube that is closed with a zipper, or vulcanizing tape.
Zipper heat shrink tube without glue will provide a lasting insulation. You can even split the conductors, insulate them with a heat shrink tube each to their own, and then an overall shrink tube to keep it together. If you need waterproof (you probably don't), the tubes with thermoglue will provide that.
Same goes for self-vulcanizing tape. It will provide a perfect seal that doesn't sag or slip. You could insulate each conductor individually to ensure that there will be no short circuit.
Either of these are likely to cost as much as, or more, than replacing the cord. Either would be entirely fine from a safety perspective.
It depends. The proper procedure would of course be to replace the cord, but from a safety perspective, insulating tape will work. It may be against regulation, and if you have kids or pets around it may be unadvisable.
The main problem is that tape tends to sag and move over time. A better solution than electrical tape would be either zipper tube, which is heat shrink tube that is closed with a zipper, or vulcanizing tape.
Zipper heat shrink tube without glue will provide a lasting insulation. You can even split the conductors, insulate them with a heat shrink tube each to their own, and then an overall shrink tube to keep it together. If you need waterproof (you probably don't), the tubes with thermoglue will provide that.
Same goes for self-vulcanizing tape. It will provide a perfect seal that doesn't sag or slip. You could insulate each conductor individually to ensure that there will be no short circuit.
Either of these are likely to cost as much as, or more, than replacing the cord. Either would be entirely fine from a safety perspective.
answered 2 days ago
vidarlovidarlo
413210
413210
add a comment |
add a comment |
Insulating tape will make it safe in the short term. In the long term (or if accessible to pets or children) it can come off or be pulled off.
It is often hard to replace the power cord. Sometimes the case of the appliance is impossible to open. Other times the cable restraint/grommet is moulded onto the appliance end, and no other piece of cable could be secured.
I'd cut the plug off the other end (if moulded on), slide heat-shrink tubing along to cover the nick, and shrink it into place. Then attach a re-wireable plug. Self-amalgamating tape is another possibility, but in my experience it goes gooey with age. Not necessarily unsafe, but not nice. A third possibility is an in-line cable joiner. Cut the cable at the nick, and join the conductors inside the in-line joiner. Some designs of joiner you could simply put the damaged cable inside the body of the joiner and secure it on both sides of the nick without actually cutting the cable at all.
Heat-shrink tube is by far the neatest.
None of this is advising whether these measures are legal under any particular wiring code. Just what I'd regard as making it safe, bearing in mind it's a clock, not, say, a hedge-trimmer that gets carried around and used outside in a wet environment.
2
"short term" meaning "time to go and fix it properly" and not "a couple of years"
– Criggie
2 days ago
add a comment |
Insulating tape will make it safe in the short term. In the long term (or if accessible to pets or children) it can come off or be pulled off.
It is often hard to replace the power cord. Sometimes the case of the appliance is impossible to open. Other times the cable restraint/grommet is moulded onto the appliance end, and no other piece of cable could be secured.
I'd cut the plug off the other end (if moulded on), slide heat-shrink tubing along to cover the nick, and shrink it into place. Then attach a re-wireable plug. Self-amalgamating tape is another possibility, but in my experience it goes gooey with age. Not necessarily unsafe, but not nice. A third possibility is an in-line cable joiner. Cut the cable at the nick, and join the conductors inside the in-line joiner. Some designs of joiner you could simply put the damaged cable inside the body of the joiner and secure it on both sides of the nick without actually cutting the cable at all.
Heat-shrink tube is by far the neatest.
None of this is advising whether these measures are legal under any particular wiring code. Just what I'd regard as making it safe, bearing in mind it's a clock, not, say, a hedge-trimmer that gets carried around and used outside in a wet environment.
2
"short term" meaning "time to go and fix it properly" and not "a couple of years"
– Criggie
2 days ago
add a comment |
Insulating tape will make it safe in the short term. In the long term (or if accessible to pets or children) it can come off or be pulled off.
It is often hard to replace the power cord. Sometimes the case of the appliance is impossible to open. Other times the cable restraint/grommet is moulded onto the appliance end, and no other piece of cable could be secured.
I'd cut the plug off the other end (if moulded on), slide heat-shrink tubing along to cover the nick, and shrink it into place. Then attach a re-wireable plug. Self-amalgamating tape is another possibility, but in my experience it goes gooey with age. Not necessarily unsafe, but not nice. A third possibility is an in-line cable joiner. Cut the cable at the nick, and join the conductors inside the in-line joiner. Some designs of joiner you could simply put the damaged cable inside the body of the joiner and secure it on both sides of the nick without actually cutting the cable at all.
Heat-shrink tube is by far the neatest.
None of this is advising whether these measures are legal under any particular wiring code. Just what I'd regard as making it safe, bearing in mind it's a clock, not, say, a hedge-trimmer that gets carried around and used outside in a wet environment.
Insulating tape will make it safe in the short term. In the long term (or if accessible to pets or children) it can come off or be pulled off.
It is often hard to replace the power cord. Sometimes the case of the appliance is impossible to open. Other times the cable restraint/grommet is moulded onto the appliance end, and no other piece of cable could be secured.
I'd cut the plug off the other end (if moulded on), slide heat-shrink tubing along to cover the nick, and shrink it into place. Then attach a re-wireable plug. Self-amalgamating tape is another possibility, but in my experience it goes gooey with age. Not necessarily unsafe, but not nice. A third possibility is an in-line cable joiner. Cut the cable at the nick, and join the conductors inside the in-line joiner. Some designs of joiner you could simply put the damaged cable inside the body of the joiner and secure it on both sides of the nick without actually cutting the cable at all.
Heat-shrink tube is by far the neatest.
None of this is advising whether these measures are legal under any particular wiring code. Just what I'd regard as making it safe, bearing in mind it's a clock, not, say, a hedge-trimmer that gets carried around and used outside in a wet environment.
answered 2 days ago
nigel222nigel222
22114
22114
2
"short term" meaning "time to go and fix it properly" and not "a couple of years"
– Criggie
2 days ago
add a comment |
2
"short term" meaning "time to go and fix it properly" and not "a couple of years"
– Criggie
2 days ago
2
2
"short term" meaning "time to go and fix it properly" and not "a couple of years"
– Criggie
2 days ago
"short term" meaning "time to go and fix it properly" and not "a couple of years"
– Criggie
2 days ago
add a comment |
Never take chances with electricity. Remove the damaged device from those who might use it. Find the correct gauge cord and replace the entire damaged cord.
New contributor
11
"Never take chances" doesn't mean that there's no safe repair for nicked insulation!
– vidarlo
2 days ago
add a comment |
Never take chances with electricity. Remove the damaged device from those who might use it. Find the correct gauge cord and replace the entire damaged cord.
New contributor
11
"Never take chances" doesn't mean that there's no safe repair for nicked insulation!
– vidarlo
2 days ago
add a comment |
Never take chances with electricity. Remove the damaged device from those who might use it. Find the correct gauge cord and replace the entire damaged cord.
New contributor
Never take chances with electricity. Remove the damaged device from those who might use it. Find the correct gauge cord and replace the entire damaged cord.
New contributor
New contributor
answered 2 days ago
GeraldGerald
271
271
New contributor
New contributor
11
"Never take chances" doesn't mean that there's no safe repair for nicked insulation!
– vidarlo
2 days ago
add a comment |
11
"Never take chances" doesn't mean that there's no safe repair for nicked insulation!
– vidarlo
2 days ago
11
11
"Never take chances" doesn't mean that there's no safe repair for nicked insulation!
– vidarlo
2 days ago
"Never take chances" doesn't mean that there's no safe repair for nicked insulation!
– vidarlo
2 days ago
add a comment |
What you have there is free access (50% of the time) to the live / hot conductor for a passing finger or other part of your anatomy. If you have an earth leakage device (RCD, might have a different name in the USA which 120V points to being your country) in your mains supply, you'll cause it to trip if you touch it and are grounded... turning off the power to that circuit. It'll hurt. If you don't have an earth leakage device the hurt could be fatal.
Proper insulating tape will work as a makeshift repair but you shouldn't rely on tape for a long-term repair to exposed wiring - the adhesive may perish, the over-wrap may slide up or down the cable, children might unwrap it to see what was underneath. Replacing the cable is a good option but will involve opening the machine and may need soldering. Shortening the cable is a good option. Cutting the cable at the damage and using a cable joiner is a safe but less good option... it depends where the fault is along the length of the cable.
New contributor
add a comment |
What you have there is free access (50% of the time) to the live / hot conductor for a passing finger or other part of your anatomy. If you have an earth leakage device (RCD, might have a different name in the USA which 120V points to being your country) in your mains supply, you'll cause it to trip if you touch it and are grounded... turning off the power to that circuit. It'll hurt. If you don't have an earth leakage device the hurt could be fatal.
Proper insulating tape will work as a makeshift repair but you shouldn't rely on tape for a long-term repair to exposed wiring - the adhesive may perish, the over-wrap may slide up or down the cable, children might unwrap it to see what was underneath. Replacing the cable is a good option but will involve opening the machine and may need soldering. Shortening the cable is a good option. Cutting the cable at the damage and using a cable joiner is a safe but less good option... it depends where the fault is along the length of the cable.
New contributor
add a comment |
What you have there is free access (50% of the time) to the live / hot conductor for a passing finger or other part of your anatomy. If you have an earth leakage device (RCD, might have a different name in the USA which 120V points to being your country) in your mains supply, you'll cause it to trip if you touch it and are grounded... turning off the power to that circuit. It'll hurt. If you don't have an earth leakage device the hurt could be fatal.
Proper insulating tape will work as a makeshift repair but you shouldn't rely on tape for a long-term repair to exposed wiring - the adhesive may perish, the over-wrap may slide up or down the cable, children might unwrap it to see what was underneath. Replacing the cable is a good option but will involve opening the machine and may need soldering. Shortening the cable is a good option. Cutting the cable at the damage and using a cable joiner is a safe but less good option... it depends where the fault is along the length of the cable.
New contributor
What you have there is free access (50% of the time) to the live / hot conductor for a passing finger or other part of your anatomy. If you have an earth leakage device (RCD, might have a different name in the USA which 120V points to being your country) in your mains supply, you'll cause it to trip if you touch it and are grounded... turning off the power to that circuit. It'll hurt. If you don't have an earth leakage device the hurt could be fatal.
Proper insulating tape will work as a makeshift repair but you shouldn't rely on tape for a long-term repair to exposed wiring - the adhesive may perish, the over-wrap may slide up or down the cable, children might unwrap it to see what was underneath. Replacing the cable is a good option but will involve opening the machine and may need soldering. Shortening the cable is a good option. Cutting the cable at the damage and using a cable joiner is a safe but less good option... it depends where the fault is along the length of the cable.
New contributor
New contributor
answered 2 days ago
houninymhouninym
1
1
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
If you're sure the wiring inside the cord isn't damaged, you can probably make a simple repair to the insulation. Zip cord is typically made of a vinyl (poly-vinyl chloride) material and you may be able to find a solvent, like for PVC "plastic" plumbing, that would dissolve the insulation enough to reform it to seal the tear, if there isn't a chunk missing. If there is material missing, perhaps a vinyl repair product would also work.
Since you made a point of mentioning it was vintage, I think these suggestions will give you the most attractive resolution.
I've seen chewed cords and this one looks like it had been caught under a piece of furniture or closed in a drawer. The stretching doesn't suggest teeth marks.
Leaving the cord alone shouldn't affect the operation of your device. Rather, it's a safety issue. Electrical tape would prevent contact with the wiring, but it's not an attractive option. Using a vinyl adhesive or patching product would restore the integrity of the insulation without compromising aesthetics.
If the wiring is actually damaged, though, replacement or shortening the cord to removed the damaged area is best.
New contributor
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. I reeeeeeeeallly wouldn't recommend using a solvent on cable insulation; you could cause entertaining delayed effects, up to and including house fires.
– Daniel Griscom
yesterday
add a comment |
If you're sure the wiring inside the cord isn't damaged, you can probably make a simple repair to the insulation. Zip cord is typically made of a vinyl (poly-vinyl chloride) material and you may be able to find a solvent, like for PVC "plastic" plumbing, that would dissolve the insulation enough to reform it to seal the tear, if there isn't a chunk missing. If there is material missing, perhaps a vinyl repair product would also work.
Since you made a point of mentioning it was vintage, I think these suggestions will give you the most attractive resolution.
I've seen chewed cords and this one looks like it had been caught under a piece of furniture or closed in a drawer. The stretching doesn't suggest teeth marks.
Leaving the cord alone shouldn't affect the operation of your device. Rather, it's a safety issue. Electrical tape would prevent contact with the wiring, but it's not an attractive option. Using a vinyl adhesive or patching product would restore the integrity of the insulation without compromising aesthetics.
If the wiring is actually damaged, though, replacement or shortening the cord to removed the damaged area is best.
New contributor
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. I reeeeeeeeallly wouldn't recommend using a solvent on cable insulation; you could cause entertaining delayed effects, up to and including house fires.
– Daniel Griscom
yesterday
add a comment |
If you're sure the wiring inside the cord isn't damaged, you can probably make a simple repair to the insulation. Zip cord is typically made of a vinyl (poly-vinyl chloride) material and you may be able to find a solvent, like for PVC "plastic" plumbing, that would dissolve the insulation enough to reform it to seal the tear, if there isn't a chunk missing. If there is material missing, perhaps a vinyl repair product would also work.
Since you made a point of mentioning it was vintage, I think these suggestions will give you the most attractive resolution.
I've seen chewed cords and this one looks like it had been caught under a piece of furniture or closed in a drawer. The stretching doesn't suggest teeth marks.
Leaving the cord alone shouldn't affect the operation of your device. Rather, it's a safety issue. Electrical tape would prevent contact with the wiring, but it's not an attractive option. Using a vinyl adhesive or patching product would restore the integrity of the insulation without compromising aesthetics.
If the wiring is actually damaged, though, replacement or shortening the cord to removed the damaged area is best.
New contributor
If you're sure the wiring inside the cord isn't damaged, you can probably make a simple repair to the insulation. Zip cord is typically made of a vinyl (poly-vinyl chloride) material and you may be able to find a solvent, like for PVC "plastic" plumbing, that would dissolve the insulation enough to reform it to seal the tear, if there isn't a chunk missing. If there is material missing, perhaps a vinyl repair product would also work.
Since you made a point of mentioning it was vintage, I think these suggestions will give you the most attractive resolution.
I've seen chewed cords and this one looks like it had been caught under a piece of furniture or closed in a drawer. The stretching doesn't suggest teeth marks.
Leaving the cord alone shouldn't affect the operation of your device. Rather, it's a safety issue. Electrical tape would prevent contact with the wiring, but it's not an attractive option. Using a vinyl adhesive or patching product would restore the integrity of the insulation without compromising aesthetics.
If the wiring is actually damaged, though, replacement or shortening the cord to removed the damaged area is best.
New contributor
New contributor
answered yesterday
Suncat2000Suncat2000
1011
1011
New contributor
New contributor
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. I reeeeeeeeallly wouldn't recommend using a solvent on cable insulation; you could cause entertaining delayed effects, up to and including house fires.
– Daniel Griscom
yesterday
add a comment |
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. I reeeeeeeeallly wouldn't recommend using a solvent on cable insulation; you could cause entertaining delayed effects, up to and including house fires.
– Daniel Griscom
yesterday
1
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. I reeeeeeeeallly wouldn't recommend using a solvent on cable insulation; you could cause entertaining delayed effects, up to and including house fires.
– Daniel Griscom
yesterday
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. I reeeeeeeeallly wouldn't recommend using a solvent on cable insulation; you could cause entertaining delayed effects, up to and including house fires.
– Daniel Griscom
yesterday
add a comment |
put some tape around it and move on. The original insulation is just a coating. Tape is just a coating. Because it is tape it isn't any good?
Someone made a comment about the tape being able to be pulled off. Yes, if someone is "trying" to pull it off. Someone could try to pull of the original insulation also. Wrap it well with tape. Then wrap it again with tape. Put it on the table and enjoy it.
New contributor
add a comment |
put some tape around it and move on. The original insulation is just a coating. Tape is just a coating. Because it is tape it isn't any good?
Someone made a comment about the tape being able to be pulled off. Yes, if someone is "trying" to pull it off. Someone could try to pull of the original insulation also. Wrap it well with tape. Then wrap it again with tape. Put it on the table and enjoy it.
New contributor
add a comment |
put some tape around it and move on. The original insulation is just a coating. Tape is just a coating. Because it is tape it isn't any good?
Someone made a comment about the tape being able to be pulled off. Yes, if someone is "trying" to pull it off. Someone could try to pull of the original insulation also. Wrap it well with tape. Then wrap it again with tape. Put it on the table and enjoy it.
New contributor
put some tape around it and move on. The original insulation is just a coating. Tape is just a coating. Because it is tape it isn't any good?
Someone made a comment about the tape being able to be pulled off. Yes, if someone is "trying" to pull it off. Someone could try to pull of the original insulation also. Wrap it well with tape. Then wrap it again with tape. Put it on the table and enjoy it.
New contributor
New contributor
answered yesterday
user99045user99045
1
1
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
David is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
David is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
David is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
David is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f161089%2fsmall-nick-on-power-cord-from-an-electric-alarm-clock-and-copper-wiring-exposed%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
ever heard of Apollo 1? frayed wiring is no bueno
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
11
@NKCampbell The problem with Apollo 1 was not frayed wiring. It was a pure oxygen atmosphere.
– vidarlo
2 days ago
that too @vidarlo :)
– NKCampbell
2 days ago
1
It looked fine until I zoomed in. That 'nick' is a gash in a section of mutilated cable with a laceration that you can't even see the extent of in one picture.
– Mazura
yesterday